Ok, the first post "tutorial" has got to be about this subject. This is hands down the most common complaint that I get from clients - I hate my dark circles. So, we are going to discuss that today. I hate my dark circles, too. Everyone does. Before we go any further, I have to say - we must be realistic as to what we are able to accomplish here. Makeup is not magic.
Nearly every cosmetic company has a product that they say will get rid of wrinkles and darkness. Read this twice - no cosmetic product gets rid of wrinkles and dark circles. It is not unusual for companies to promise things they can't deliver (do I really even have to say that?). Educate yourself on what ingredients are in your treatment products and do your own research (Google) to see what the experts -the ones not hired by that company - say about them. I think every person should use an eye cream to help slow down the effects of aging, but I have never found a product that "took away" anything permanently.
There are a few eye creams that I think make the skin in the eye area look much better - and also provide a smoother surface for the concealer. I do not recommend eye creams during the day - invariably they will adversely affect the way your makeup wears. Plus, if they are good, once a day is enough. And be very careful applying to the upper lid. Most creams are really not meant for this area.
A few creams to consider are Hylexin ( for very dark circles), AbOvo ( uses Emu Oil for healing) and Guerlain SuperAcqua Eye ( great as a hydrator for dehydrated skins).
Once you have gotten the skin ready, then apply the cover. I use Keromask - a British product that has recently expanded it's color range. It is without a doubt the best concealer I have ever used. There are others that work well - MAC Full Coverage makes great concealer (albeit a little oily), as does DermaColor, Shu Uemura and - one of my faves - YSL Touche E'clat ( it is for highlighting and brightening, not covering up).
Concealer should be applied with a brush. Concealer sticks where it first touches heat. The fingers are too warm and start the melting process immediately, thereby leaving the adhesive part on your fingers, not the area you were trying to conceal. This is the main reason that you put on concealer in the morning, look at yourself in the middle of the day, and you look like you don't have any on. I always hear "My skin eats it". Not possible - it just wasn't applied correctly.
When matching a color, avoid colors that are too yellow. Because their circles appear to be purple, a lot of people want yellow - it is on the opposite side of the color wheel from the discoloration that they see, so, in theory, it should neutralize the purple. We see a lot of purple in the under eye area, but the main color is more grey. And yellow won't hide grey - in fact it makes it worse. You need something with a little pink or red to neutralize the grey.
You are also not mixing paint. You cannot take a very light color and "infuse" it into the dark area, making that area lighter. All you can do is cover it up and you will do that more successfully with a color that is close to your skin tone. If you have a deep indentation, going one shade lighter can lift the area out and make it not look so dark. BUT - only wear a super-light concealer if you want to look like an aging soap opera actress. It does not fool anyone into thinking you don't have dark circles, they just think you have a ton of makeup on.
Apply concealer in very small amounts and blend each layer as you go. 2 thin coats is much better than 1 heavy coat. It covers better, blends easier and looks more like skin. Blending can be done with a foundation brush or a sponge. Or, if you are neurotic like me, you can use both. When using the sponge, you should always pat/press the skin, not drag the sponge over the area. Any time you are working around the eyes, use half of the pressure you think is ok. This is very thin skin and very unforgiving, particularly if it is abused. If your eyes are deep set, be very careful how far down you bring the concealer - you want to blend the edges of the concealer into the skin, so that they are seamless. Remember that the concealer, if not blended well, will have a different texture than the rest of the skin. This is so noticeable that you may as well draw an arrow to it.
I like to conceal first, then do the eyes, followed by foundation and powder. Do not put concealer over powder unless you have been shown exactly how to do this - it can be a caked-on disaster if not done well.
You can also use concealer in other areas of the face - covering spots, bruises, etc. This can be a lot trickier - you should have a little knowledge of color theory, so that you can color-correct, as well as hide. Always blend well and apply this before foundation so that there is no line.
Concealer can be your best friend or your worst enemy. It all depends on you. Use it correctly and lots of imperfections can be made invisible (or at least unimportant). Put it on wrong and it will accentuate the very thing you are trying to hide. More is not neccessarily better. Better is better.
Friday, December 30, 2011
Wednesday, December 21, 2011
Merry Christmas to us
I know this blog is supposed to discuss beauty and fashion topics, but since it is the Holiday's, I hope you will indulge me in telling you about the best Christmas gift Darryl and I ever received.
MAC had sent us on a whirlwind, moving and promoted every year "Southern US Tour" for years. Miss Patsy ( our Shih Tzu) left us in December of 2002. We had already decided that if we didn't get back to NOLA, we were not going to be happy. And we did like most dog owners after losing a pet, we waffled back and forth about getting another dog. My sister took her dog in to see the vet and noticed a sign about Lhasa Apso puppies for sale. Long story short , she and my Mom went to pick out a puppy for us. I told them to get the first one to run up to them, wagging it's tail. Well, life doesn't always work like we expect it to. 2 puppies ran together up to meet them loving on each other, the breeder said they popped out at the same time and were inseperable. So, we had 2 dogs. Elvis and James Dean (JD). So precious and beautiful. They would fit in your hand and were already members of the family before we got the car started.
We got them out of their little kennel one morning when they were about 12 weeks old and Elvis' back legs kept sliding out from under him. He couldn't walk on them at all - they wouldn't support any weight. So I took them to my vet at the time, Patrick McSweeney ( never was there anyone who loved animals more than Pat and his wife Beverly). Darryl and I had to go do a MAC event in Houston, so we left the boys with the vet, so someone could watch over them, especially Elvis. By the time we got back, Elvis had gotten worse, now was almost completely paralyzed, except for some facial muscles and his diaphragm - so he could at least swallow and breathe. Even his bark was gone - he just made a little rasping sound. He seemed to be getting worse by the minute. So, I put him in the car and took him to the LSU Vet School in Baton Rouge. Patrick had called ahead and they were expecting us.
After several thousand dollars, putting my baby through any and every test they could think to perform (and bill me for), they first decided he had West Nile Virus - ruled out; then he had an Auto-Immune Disorder - ruled out. They finally settled on Coon Hound Paralysis ( also known as Coon Dog Paralysis). After several weeks of us going 3 times a week to see him, the student in charge of Elvis told me, in a matter-of-fact, I don't give a shit voice that "He's not any better, doesn't look like he will get better and we think you need to put him to sleep." I grabbed Elvis from her, resisted the urge to punch her, told her she should not be a vet, because she had no heart (yelled it at her might be a more appropriate description). And I brought Elvis home. Patrick had us on a regimen of pills and physical therapy. We would sit Elvis in our laps and move his legs like he was dancing, but the thing that helped the most was us putting water in the bathtub and putting a towel under Elvis, so he could swim. His legs moved just a little, which gave us some hope. Actually, now that I think about it, the thing that helped him most was his brother JD. JD would get a Budda Bone and bring it to where Elvis was laying so that they could each have an end and play together. He also would bring a mouthful of food to him and put it down so they could share it.
Darryl and I would sit in the floor in front of the food and water bowl with Elvis and hold him in a standing position while we helped him eat. We tried to let him support himself more each day. One night, about 5 days before Christmas, Elvis took a step and then fell over. We knew then that he was going to get better. By the time we took him to my Mother's in Mobile for Christmas, he was walking (admittedly a little shaky) and standing up to eat. His bark came back (careful what you wish for - he hasn't stopped since). This was such an amazing gift, I couldn't think of anything else I needed to make this the perfect Christmas.
Oh yeah, the person ( I hope she is not a vet) from the Vet School said "Even if it does go away, it'll probably come back". 9 years later, I think she was wrong about that, too. Yeah, the boys are 9 1/2 and so happy. Elvis has always had more difficulties than JD - eyes, skin trouble, etc. Also, his back legs are fused at what would be our knee joint. He moves his legs independently of each other when he walks and uses both back legs in a sort of gallop when he runs. He and his brother love to wrestle and play-fight and it is usually Elvis who starts it. He does not know he has a handicap. Darryl taught him to go up the steps by swinging one leg up to the next step, while pushing up with his front legs ( which support about 60% of a dog's weight). Darryl also taught him to go down the stairs on his front 2 legs, only using the back legs to steady himself.
Anyone who knows me and Darryl knows that when we set our minds to something, we aren't just going to give up. Both of us knew Elvis would be ok and refused to buy into the negativity of the people we dealt with at the Vet School. If he had not recovered, it wasn't going to happen without a fight from both of us. Actually, from all 4 of us, JD gave him so much love and attention that it had to make a difference. And my Elvis is a fighter - he pulled himself out of a terrible situation. I guess we all helped pull him out of a terrible situation.
So, that is Elvis' story. He and his brother are beautiful, strong animals who love their 2 daddies. Plus they sleep on pillows and in the bed. But they are not spoiled. Well...
May you get everything your heart desires this Holiday season.
MAC had sent us on a whirlwind, moving and promoted every year "Southern US Tour" for years. Miss Patsy ( our Shih Tzu) left us in December of 2002. We had already decided that if we didn't get back to NOLA, we were not going to be happy. And we did like most dog owners after losing a pet, we waffled back and forth about getting another dog. My sister took her dog in to see the vet and noticed a sign about Lhasa Apso puppies for sale. Long story short , she and my Mom went to pick out a puppy for us. I told them to get the first one to run up to them, wagging it's tail. Well, life doesn't always work like we expect it to. 2 puppies ran together up to meet them loving on each other, the breeder said they popped out at the same time and were inseperable. So, we had 2 dogs. Elvis and James Dean (JD). So precious and beautiful. They would fit in your hand and were already members of the family before we got the car started.
We got them out of their little kennel one morning when they were about 12 weeks old and Elvis' back legs kept sliding out from under him. He couldn't walk on them at all - they wouldn't support any weight. So I took them to my vet at the time, Patrick McSweeney ( never was there anyone who loved animals more than Pat and his wife Beverly). Darryl and I had to go do a MAC event in Houston, so we left the boys with the vet, so someone could watch over them, especially Elvis. By the time we got back, Elvis had gotten worse, now was almost completely paralyzed, except for some facial muscles and his diaphragm - so he could at least swallow and breathe. Even his bark was gone - he just made a little rasping sound. He seemed to be getting worse by the minute. So, I put him in the car and took him to the LSU Vet School in Baton Rouge. Patrick had called ahead and they were expecting us.
After several thousand dollars, putting my baby through any and every test they could think to perform (and bill me for), they first decided he had West Nile Virus - ruled out; then he had an Auto-Immune Disorder - ruled out. They finally settled on Coon Hound Paralysis ( also known as Coon Dog Paralysis). After several weeks of us going 3 times a week to see him, the student in charge of Elvis told me, in a matter-of-fact, I don't give a shit voice that "He's not any better, doesn't look like he will get better and we think you need to put him to sleep." I grabbed Elvis from her, resisted the urge to punch her, told her she should not be a vet, because she had no heart (yelled it at her might be a more appropriate description). And I brought Elvis home. Patrick had us on a regimen of pills and physical therapy. We would sit Elvis in our laps and move his legs like he was dancing, but the thing that helped the most was us putting water in the bathtub and putting a towel under Elvis, so he could swim. His legs moved just a little, which gave us some hope. Actually, now that I think about it, the thing that helped him most was his brother JD. JD would get a Budda Bone and bring it to where Elvis was laying so that they could each have an end and play together. He also would bring a mouthful of food to him and put it down so they could share it.
Darryl and I would sit in the floor in front of the food and water bowl with Elvis and hold him in a standing position while we helped him eat. We tried to let him support himself more each day. One night, about 5 days before Christmas, Elvis took a step and then fell over. We knew then that he was going to get better. By the time we took him to my Mother's in Mobile for Christmas, he was walking (admittedly a little shaky) and standing up to eat. His bark came back (careful what you wish for - he hasn't stopped since). This was such an amazing gift, I couldn't think of anything else I needed to make this the perfect Christmas.
Oh yeah, the person ( I hope she is not a vet) from the Vet School said "Even if it does go away, it'll probably come back". 9 years later, I think she was wrong about that, too. Yeah, the boys are 9 1/2 and so happy. Elvis has always had more difficulties than JD - eyes, skin trouble, etc. Also, his back legs are fused at what would be our knee joint. He moves his legs independently of each other when he walks and uses both back legs in a sort of gallop when he runs. He and his brother love to wrestle and play-fight and it is usually Elvis who starts it. He does not know he has a handicap. Darryl taught him to go up the steps by swinging one leg up to the next step, while pushing up with his front legs ( which support about 60% of a dog's weight). Darryl also taught him to go down the stairs on his front 2 legs, only using the back legs to steady himself.
Anyone who knows me and Darryl knows that when we set our minds to something, we aren't just going to give up. Both of us knew Elvis would be ok and refused to buy into the negativity of the people we dealt with at the Vet School. If he had not recovered, it wasn't going to happen without a fight from both of us. Actually, from all 4 of us, JD gave him so much love and attention that it had to make a difference. And my Elvis is a fighter - he pulled himself out of a terrible situation. I guess we all helped pull him out of a terrible situation.
So, that is Elvis' story. He and his brother are beautiful, strong animals who love their 2 daddies. Plus they sleep on pillows and in the bed. But they are not spoiled. Well...
May you get everything your heart desires this Holiday season.
Wednesday, December 14, 2011
Buying Beauty
No, this is not about me railing against plastic surgery and it's addictive nature - I will do that w/my New Year's resolutions. This year I've decided to add some for a few other people, since obviously they don't think of them. Yes, it's bitchy, but...
Today, we need to discuss how to buy gifts of beauty for a loved one as a holiday present. There are a few simple rules, and a few not so simple, but really important ones.
What NOT to do:
1. Never buy foundation, concealer or powder as a gift. These things are so personal with regard to matching the color and finding a compatible texture, etc, that you will never get it right. Do not be guilty of saying "Well, this looks like her color". Unless you want a lackluster response to your gift. Or tears. Or both.
2. Don't buy anything that says "wrinkle". Ever. We all know we have them, but do you want to be bitch-slapped with that fact on Christmas morning? I don't (of course, I have no wrinkles - do I hear giggling?). More tears are on the way!
3. Beware of gift sets. They may look like a bargain, but invariably 60 % of the set won't be right for the skin tone/coloring of the intended recipient and if all she ( or he) can use is 40% of it, was it such a deal, after all? Plus, in the midst of the few somewhat wearable things are some of the most god-awful, hideous colors (things that would never sell alone) on earth. And cheaply made brushes - we've discussed that before. Bigger is not better - at least not in this case.
4. If the person you are buying for always wears red lips, why would you buy her a different color? Picking out colors is hard enough for the person themselves, much less for someone else to try and do for them. Like foundations, lips are an area where women get in a comfort zone and don't want to be forced out by you. Or anyone else. REMEMBER: no matter how much you hate the bright pink lip gloss someone wears, she wouldn't be wearing it if she didn't like it.
OK, now for some help in how to make this successful:
1. Gift Certificates and Gift Cards are always the right color and texture. But, please find out where she likes to shop and buy accordingly. If she is a die-hard Saks fan, don't give her a GC from Dillard's. For the most part, they sell the same things, but it can be a totally different experience. A GC from her favorite salon, makeup artist or spa is always a good choice. She will be able to get whatever she wants from a place she already knows.
2. If you don't want to do the GC thing, scope out her makeup bag and write down the names (brand name and color name - if there is a number, write it, too) of some things you see her use all the time. This is a much safer way to go. Plus, she will think that you pay such good attention to her that you even know what makeup she wears. She doesn't have to know.
3. Stay with things that are not so specific - makeup bags and brush holders, clear lip gloss ( unless she always wears a matte lip - pay attention), facial sprays, bath gels/body scrubs (always good paired with a big sea sponge for a "spa"feel). Also smaller, travel sizes can be added to the bag, etc to customize the gift.
4. There is not a woman on earth who wouldn't love a new set of brushes, paired with a makeup lesson, so that she can learn how to use them. Just make sure you get the regular brushes, not the "holiday set" ( I didn't capitalize that, because it doesn't deserve it - I can't tell you how much I hate the machine-made ones. And 99% of the holiday ones are cheap and machine-made, despite what they may want you to believe). Add brush cleanser to this and you've got a great gift.
5. This last one is possibly my favorite ( at least tied with the "buy a GC from a makeup artist one. Holla!). Arrange for the 2 of you to have massages in your home. Always look for a Licensed Massage Therapist (we are not talking about the other kind of "massage") who has a table and does outcall services. You will pay more for them to come to you, but it is worth it. While she is having her massage, use some of that bath gel to run her a hot bath, so she can go from the massage table to the bathtub. Then she can feel like she is having her own private spa day. Who wouldn't love this?
OK, I hope that is at least a small help to those of you who are thinking of buying this type of gift. If you make a great choice, she will tell her best friends. If your choice sucks big-time, she will tell the story every time the subject of holiday gifts comes up. Bank on it.
Today, we need to discuss how to buy gifts of beauty for a loved one as a holiday present. There are a few simple rules, and a few not so simple, but really important ones.
What NOT to do:
1. Never buy foundation, concealer or powder as a gift. These things are so personal with regard to matching the color and finding a compatible texture, etc, that you will never get it right. Do not be guilty of saying "Well, this looks like her color". Unless you want a lackluster response to your gift. Or tears. Or both.
2. Don't buy anything that says "wrinkle". Ever. We all know we have them, but do you want to be bitch-slapped with that fact on Christmas morning? I don't (of course, I have no wrinkles - do I hear giggling?). More tears are on the way!
3. Beware of gift sets. They may look like a bargain, but invariably 60 % of the set won't be right for the skin tone/coloring of the intended recipient and if all she ( or he) can use is 40% of it, was it such a deal, after all? Plus, in the midst of the few somewhat wearable things are some of the most god-awful, hideous colors (things that would never sell alone) on earth. And cheaply made brushes - we've discussed that before. Bigger is not better - at least not in this case.
4. If the person you are buying for always wears red lips, why would you buy her a different color? Picking out colors is hard enough for the person themselves, much less for someone else to try and do for them. Like foundations, lips are an area where women get in a comfort zone and don't want to be forced out by you. Or anyone else. REMEMBER: no matter how much you hate the bright pink lip gloss someone wears, she wouldn't be wearing it if she didn't like it.
OK, now for some help in how to make this successful:
1. Gift Certificates and Gift Cards are always the right color and texture. But, please find out where she likes to shop and buy accordingly. If she is a die-hard Saks fan, don't give her a GC from Dillard's. For the most part, they sell the same things, but it can be a totally different experience. A GC from her favorite salon, makeup artist or spa is always a good choice. She will be able to get whatever she wants from a place she already knows.
2. If you don't want to do the GC thing, scope out her makeup bag and write down the names (brand name and color name - if there is a number, write it, too) of some things you see her use all the time. This is a much safer way to go. Plus, she will think that you pay such good attention to her that you even know what makeup she wears. She doesn't have to know.
3. Stay with things that are not so specific - makeup bags and brush holders, clear lip gloss ( unless she always wears a matte lip - pay attention), facial sprays, bath gels/body scrubs (always good paired with a big sea sponge for a "spa"feel). Also smaller, travel sizes can be added to the bag, etc to customize the gift.
4. There is not a woman on earth who wouldn't love a new set of brushes, paired with a makeup lesson, so that she can learn how to use them. Just make sure you get the regular brushes, not the "holiday set" ( I didn't capitalize that, because it doesn't deserve it - I can't tell you how much I hate the machine-made ones. And 99% of the holiday ones are cheap and machine-made, despite what they may want you to believe). Add brush cleanser to this and you've got a great gift.
5. This last one is possibly my favorite ( at least tied with the "buy a GC from a makeup artist one. Holla!). Arrange for the 2 of you to have massages in your home. Always look for a Licensed Massage Therapist (we are not talking about the other kind of "massage") who has a table and does outcall services. You will pay more for them to come to you, but it is worth it. While she is having her massage, use some of that bath gel to run her a hot bath, so she can go from the massage table to the bathtub. Then she can feel like she is having her own private spa day. Who wouldn't love this?
OK, I hope that is at least a small help to those of you who are thinking of buying this type of gift. If you make a great choice, she will tell her best friends. If your choice sucks big-time, she will tell the story every time the subject of holiday gifts comes up. Bank on it.
Saturday, December 3, 2011
Musings...
Well, here we are again. I think it's time to discuss something that every woman has done at some point; some love it, some would rather do anything but this. I'm talking about buying makeup from a Department store/Sephora cosmetic department. Did half of you just get chills? Sometimes it is a necessary evil - there is no escaping it. Either you want a specific product that is only available there or you need makeup help and have limited options other than the mall (I'm sorry).
Do a quick inventory before you go. Look at your brushes to see what you have, check your mascara ( 3 months is the time limit!!!!!). Know what you already have and you can spend your money where you need to. Brushes are always a good investment - but beware the Holiday brush sets - for most companies they are machine-made, not hand made (like the regular ones), so they are not as good. Holiday eye and lip sets are a good way to get a variety of colors, but, again, they may not be made as well as the regular items in the line - ditto for "limited-edition" colors - it is a nice way of saying "we didn't make a lot and they are not always as good". There is a reason these sets are cheap. Again, just saying...
When you walk in the store, take a few minutes to check out the people working. If you are approached immediately ( beware the sharks!) tell them you want to look around by yourself for a few moments. Don't be intimidated by the first person to jump you at the door. Step back and scope out the makeup artists. FYI- there are exceptions to this next thing, but not many... if you are looking for a natural, polished business look, the one wearing 2 pounds of foundation w/8 eyeshadow colors (no matter how well done) and a full strip lash at 11:30 in the morning may not be the best one to help you. If their daytime "look" includes glitter (and it's not Mardi Gras) maybe he or she is not the right fit for you.
Now, this is something you MUST do! Tell whoever you are working with what kind of look you are hoping to achieve. Pictures help out a lot here. My version of dark eyes will I am sure be darker than your version. Trust me. With that said, let's be realistic. No matter how many pics of J-Lo you take with you, you will not leave looking like her. You will however get the point across that you like a softly shaded, fully lined eye with maximum lash (careful, you all know how I feel about caked on mascara) and a softer lip - bronzed (again be realistic - if you are winter pale, do not go for the darkest bronzer in the store; you will be orange and look ridiculous) and glowing. These are concepts that are easier to explain if you have a visual.
Be an active participant - if you need a look for work and the artist pulls out a bright purple eye shadow, question them. "How does this fit into what we talked about?" If they can't explain past "I like purple", thank them and move on. You are there for advice, but you also are the one who is going to be wearing this makeup, so you need to both look and feel good in it - or it shows in your face that you are not comfortable. Ask questions - if you like a sheer skin and they are showing you a 3 step foundation look, it ain't gonna work! "Is there something in one step that is easy and still looks polished?" Of course there is!
Make sure you understand what is being done, so that you can reproduce it. Almost every counter offers a chart with written instructions as well as a diagram. This will prove invaluable as time goes on - just to re-inforce the placement of the colors. The artist should be able to explain in a clear manner - if you don't understand, ask again. And again. Until you get it.
OK, you have had your makeup done - you like it, the colors look good, foundation matches, etc. Buy some things! If you take up the time of the artist, you need to buy at least a few things. If you hate the lips, buy something else. Please don't take up the time of someone who is working on commission and just say "Thanks" and walk away. If you don't like it at the end, some of the responsibility is yours - why didn't you speak up? This has to be a mutual effort to achieve what you really want. Your needs + their expertise should add up to a look that you both are happy with.
Now, here are some things to avoid:
If your foundation doesn't match in the store, it isn't going to match anywhere - stop them and try a different color.
Powder foundations ( Studio Fix, Dual-Finish, etc) can be a disaster.They have a tendency to be super-matte at first (skin should have a little sheen to it or it looks "corpse-like". Plus, people touch up w/these things like they are just powder - they have oil in them and will get thicker and thicker all day. The titanium dioxide used as a mattifier looks awful in a flash photo ( you know, tan body/white face, ugh!)
Just because something is on a feature unit on the counter doesn't mean it's better. The "new, trendy" things are not for everyone. The more classic colors will be in the regular line, not on the new units. Most of those things are geared to the 15 year old impulse buyer, or the "makeup junkie/victim" who has to have everything, no matter how hideous it looks on her.
Don't be bullied. Grow a backbone - some of these people are the epitome of the "hard-sell"! Buyer beware! Don't let them sell you things you don't need. Also, don't be a coward, buy things and then return it all. This is one reason that prices go up and up and up. Along with the culture of greed in corporate America. Oh, and the fact that almost all of the companies are actually run by exec's in suits who have never put on a lipstick in their lives...or at least don't admit to it.
Ok, that is enough for this time. Later...
Do a quick inventory before you go. Look at your brushes to see what you have, check your mascara ( 3 months is the time limit!!!!!). Know what you already have and you can spend your money where you need to. Brushes are always a good investment - but beware the Holiday brush sets - for most companies they are machine-made, not hand made (like the regular ones), so they are not as good. Holiday eye and lip sets are a good way to get a variety of colors, but, again, they may not be made as well as the regular items in the line - ditto for "limited-edition" colors - it is a nice way of saying "we didn't make a lot and they are not always as good". There is a reason these sets are cheap. Again, just saying...
When you walk in the store, take a few minutes to check out the people working. If you are approached immediately ( beware the sharks!) tell them you want to look around by yourself for a few moments. Don't be intimidated by the first person to jump you at the door. Step back and scope out the makeup artists. FYI- there are exceptions to this next thing, but not many... if you are looking for a natural, polished business look, the one wearing 2 pounds of foundation w/8 eyeshadow colors (no matter how well done) and a full strip lash at 11:30 in the morning may not be the best one to help you. If their daytime "look" includes glitter (and it's not Mardi Gras) maybe he or she is not the right fit for you.
Now, this is something you MUST do! Tell whoever you are working with what kind of look you are hoping to achieve. Pictures help out a lot here. My version of dark eyes will I am sure be darker than your version. Trust me. With that said, let's be realistic. No matter how many pics of J-Lo you take with you, you will not leave looking like her. You will however get the point across that you like a softly shaded, fully lined eye with maximum lash (careful, you all know how I feel about caked on mascara) and a softer lip - bronzed (again be realistic - if you are winter pale, do not go for the darkest bronzer in the store; you will be orange and look ridiculous) and glowing. These are concepts that are easier to explain if you have a visual.
Be an active participant - if you need a look for work and the artist pulls out a bright purple eye shadow, question them. "How does this fit into what we talked about?" If they can't explain past "I like purple", thank them and move on. You are there for advice, but you also are the one who is going to be wearing this makeup, so you need to both look and feel good in it - or it shows in your face that you are not comfortable. Ask questions - if you like a sheer skin and they are showing you a 3 step foundation look, it ain't gonna work! "Is there something in one step that is easy and still looks polished?" Of course there is!
Make sure you understand what is being done, so that you can reproduce it. Almost every counter offers a chart with written instructions as well as a diagram. This will prove invaluable as time goes on - just to re-inforce the placement of the colors. The artist should be able to explain in a clear manner - if you don't understand, ask again. And again. Until you get it.
OK, you have had your makeup done - you like it, the colors look good, foundation matches, etc. Buy some things! If you take up the time of the artist, you need to buy at least a few things. If you hate the lips, buy something else. Please don't take up the time of someone who is working on commission and just say "Thanks" and walk away. If you don't like it at the end, some of the responsibility is yours - why didn't you speak up? This has to be a mutual effort to achieve what you really want. Your needs + their expertise should add up to a look that you both are happy with.
Now, here are some things to avoid:
If your foundation doesn't match in the store, it isn't going to match anywhere - stop them and try a different color.
Powder foundations ( Studio Fix, Dual-Finish, etc) can be a disaster.They have a tendency to be super-matte at first (skin should have a little sheen to it or it looks "corpse-like". Plus, people touch up w/these things like they are just powder - they have oil in them and will get thicker and thicker all day. The titanium dioxide used as a mattifier looks awful in a flash photo ( you know, tan body/white face, ugh!)
Just because something is on a feature unit on the counter doesn't mean it's better. The "new, trendy" things are not for everyone. The more classic colors will be in the regular line, not on the new units. Most of those things are geared to the 15 year old impulse buyer, or the "makeup junkie/victim" who has to have everything, no matter how hideous it looks on her.
Don't be bullied. Grow a backbone - some of these people are the epitome of the "hard-sell"! Buyer beware! Don't let them sell you things you don't need. Also, don't be a coward, buy things and then return it all. This is one reason that prices go up and up and up. Along with the culture of greed in corporate America. Oh, and the fact that almost all of the companies are actually run by exec's in suits who have never put on a lipstick in their lives...or at least don't admit to it.
Ok, that is enough for this time. Later...
Monday, November 21, 2011
Hair trends from Brian Thibodeaux
I know you all think I am writing this because I love to see myself in print...okay, you're right.
But, I want to present you with expert views from a variety of sources. My first collaborator, fittingly, is one of my oldest, OLDEST friends, Brian Thibodeaux. Brian has been a hair stylist and colorist for over 25 years (way, way over) and discovered soon into his career that his true art and passion was in hair color. One can learn technique, but true talent can only come naturally.
He has worked with most of the famous names in our business and has styled and colored the hair of celebs from singer Shirley Manson of the band Garbage to Jennifer Lopez. He has also worked with designers from around the globe, naming Paul Smith and Adrienne Vittadini as 2 of his favorites. Brian was a national Educator and Platform artist for both Matrix Essentials Color and Logics International Color for 6 years.
So, here in ( mostly) his own words, the man called "the best in the biz" by the Dallas Observer gives us the "heads up" - groan! Sorry, couldn't stop myself- on what he sees as the strongest trends for the season:
Anyone who has paid attention to everything from NY Fashion Week to HGTV has noticed that color is BIG...brighter, more shimmer, more intense.
At this point, allow me to interject that while I love to check out these trends, I am a strong proponent of the idea that many of us will follow these as if God himself is sending them down the mountain on a stone tablet by Moses, and that is not a good thing here. There is a fine line between being "fashionable" and becoming a "fashion victim". (Robert - PLEASE read this last line twice - there is a reason we call it "slave to fashion". That is not a compliment!)
But, there are some trends with hair and hair color that I believe may be worth taking a closer look. Deeper, richer tones in the hair are a huge trend right now and that translates for most of us into color that enhances the skin tones instead of washing us out.
YES, even if you are a highlighted blonde. Keep reading...
When highlighting hair, it isn't the hair you highlight that is important, it is the hair you don't highlight that has the most influence on your overall look.
It is the contrast that makes your blonde hair appear even lighter, but at the same time, adding a rich undertone and depth that will make your skin and eye color look brighter and healthier! Many women are afraid of red and/or gold in the hair but these tones are not only a fashionable addition to hair: they are a necessity for the majority of us if you want beautiful hair color. Very, very few of us look good in only cool tones...as a matter of fact, they quite often wash us out and make us look old and tired. So, without warm tones in our hair, it will begin to appear as grey and lifeless. Not a good thing. ( Robert - very true. I put a blue/mauve pencil on an actress' lips once for a TV movie - she was supposed to look as if she was being poisoned - worked great!)
As far as style, we will continue to see fuller hair that has some movement ( no jokes about Dallas "big hair" - it wouldn't move in a tornado). The "flat iron every strand to death" is finally taking a (much-needed) break. Even clients that have been getting the Keratin or Brazilian straighteners, are choosing to at least use the lighter version - often referred to as the "24 hour" on the first few inches of the new growth, then the regular strength through the shaft and ends. This allows the hair to be smooth and shiny, in addition to having movement and lift at the roots. I, for one, am happy to see that trend coming into vogue. (Robert - I agree. Volume and softness do very "kind" things to the face).
Thank you, Brian for giving us all your expert opinion on what we have been seeing. It sounds to me like these are all things that most women can benefit from - after all, who doesn't want hair that looks healthy and beautiful, not "tortured"?
I'll let Brian finish this in his own words. those of you who know me well, will understand why we are friends:
"Quite often, even now, it just doen't feel like work at all...more like hanging out with friends, but friends who apparently don't mind that I charge them to make them more beautiful! That seems like a fair trade, right?"
Brian Thibodeaux can be reached at Sola Salon Studios in Dallas, TX. 214-502-0188, http://www.solasalonstudios.com/ or at hairsaviour@me.com
until next time...
But, I want to present you with expert views from a variety of sources. My first collaborator, fittingly, is one of my oldest, OLDEST friends, Brian Thibodeaux. Brian has been a hair stylist and colorist for over 25 years (way, way over) and discovered soon into his career that his true art and passion was in hair color. One can learn technique, but true talent can only come naturally.
He has worked with most of the famous names in our business and has styled and colored the hair of celebs from singer Shirley Manson of the band Garbage to Jennifer Lopez. He has also worked with designers from around the globe, naming Paul Smith and Adrienne Vittadini as 2 of his favorites. Brian was a national Educator and Platform artist for both Matrix Essentials Color and Logics International Color for 6 years.
So, here in ( mostly) his own words, the man called "the best in the biz" by the Dallas Observer gives us the "heads up" - groan! Sorry, couldn't stop myself- on what he sees as the strongest trends for the season:
Anyone who has paid attention to everything from NY Fashion Week to HGTV has noticed that color is BIG...brighter, more shimmer, more intense.
At this point, allow me to interject that while I love to check out these trends, I am a strong proponent of the idea that many of us will follow these as if God himself is sending them down the mountain on a stone tablet by Moses, and that is not a good thing here. There is a fine line between being "fashionable" and becoming a "fashion victim". (Robert - PLEASE read this last line twice - there is a reason we call it "slave to fashion". That is not a compliment!)
But, there are some trends with hair and hair color that I believe may be worth taking a closer look. Deeper, richer tones in the hair are a huge trend right now and that translates for most of us into color that enhances the skin tones instead of washing us out.
YES, even if you are a highlighted blonde. Keep reading...
When highlighting hair, it isn't the hair you highlight that is important, it is the hair you don't highlight that has the most influence on your overall look.
It is the contrast that makes your blonde hair appear even lighter, but at the same time, adding a rich undertone and depth that will make your skin and eye color look brighter and healthier! Many women are afraid of red and/or gold in the hair but these tones are not only a fashionable addition to hair: they are a necessity for the majority of us if you want beautiful hair color. Very, very few of us look good in only cool tones...as a matter of fact, they quite often wash us out and make us look old and tired. So, without warm tones in our hair, it will begin to appear as grey and lifeless. Not a good thing. ( Robert - very true. I put a blue/mauve pencil on an actress' lips once for a TV movie - she was supposed to look as if she was being poisoned - worked great!)
As far as style, we will continue to see fuller hair that has some movement ( no jokes about Dallas "big hair" - it wouldn't move in a tornado). The "flat iron every strand to death" is finally taking a (much-needed) break. Even clients that have been getting the Keratin or Brazilian straighteners, are choosing to at least use the lighter version - often referred to as the "24 hour" on the first few inches of the new growth, then the regular strength through the shaft and ends. This allows the hair to be smooth and shiny, in addition to having movement and lift at the roots. I, for one, am happy to see that trend coming into vogue. (Robert - I agree. Volume and softness do very "kind" things to the face).
Thank you, Brian for giving us all your expert opinion on what we have been seeing. It sounds to me like these are all things that most women can benefit from - after all, who doesn't want hair that looks healthy and beautiful, not "tortured"?
I'll let Brian finish this in his own words. those of you who know me well, will understand why we are friends:
"Quite often, even now, it just doen't feel like work at all...more like hanging out with friends, but friends who apparently don't mind that I charge them to make them more beautiful! That seems like a fair trade, right?"
Brian Thibodeaux can be reached at Sola Salon Studios in Dallas, TX. 214-502-0188, http://www.solasalonstudios.com/ or at hairsaviour@me.com
until next time...
Tuesday, November 15, 2011
Observations/rants about some of the Fall runway trends...
Here are a few I think we will see on a lot of people and a few others I hope to never see!
Ralph Lauren: Asian inspired looks paired with a red lip - not the brown/mahogany reds we have seen for several seasons, but a true RED . When paired with minimal blush and a clean lined eye it makes me think this is the top holiday trend.
DO NOT put this red lip with bright or really dark eyes unless you want to look like you are playing dress-up. If you are a drag queen, you are allowed to ignore this.
FYI- If you always wear a soft lip and have done the rest of your makeup to work with that color, just going in to a store and putting on a red lipstick is asking for trouble. Why would you expect it to look right? It is all about balance, so a better idea would be to wear a soft eye and try it on with that. When trying on a lipstick in a store - if the artist doesn't clean the lipstick with alcohol prior, you should ask for alcohol on a tissue, clean it yourself and let the store know that their makeup is not being kept sanitary. Don't be embarrassed,they are your lips and a dirty lipstick is about as dirty as it gets.
Prada: Another soft look, sparked with black liner in the inside rim of the eye. This trend showed up a lot this season - an easy way to take it to the real world would be to use a dark brown pencil (not shimmery) instead and keep the black for after 5. Waterproof pencils should NOT be used inside the eye - why would you put a waterproof product on a wet surface and expect good results? The only thing I would have changed is the pale, almost gone mouth. It always seems like a good idea, but really just ends up looking like you either forgot to do your lips or ran out of time.
Miu-Miu: Red eye shadow all over the lid? Ewwwww!!! Let's hope this doesn't catch on. Looked like an allergic reaction. A bad one. This was on the runway at numerous other shows - I'd name them, but they are all people we've never heard of. Wonder why?
Gucci: Warning! Don't try this at home! Ultra-pale skin with heavy black glittery liner/shadow and invisible brows and lips. The models looked like aliens, and I don't mean the pretty blue Avatar kind. I thought heroin chic was dead. Oh wait, it is.
Another trend that we are seeing and hearing about is purple everything: eyes, lips, nails. Literally everything. Although purple can be hard to wear for a lot of skin tones, there is almost always a way to incorporate it into your wardrobe. Polish on the toes is a no-brainer, even I could get away with that. But just because it is a hot color doesn't mean you have to put it on your lips or eyes or even worse, both. Don't let it overpower you. Pick a place and own it.
Can we PLEASE let go of these 2 (old) trends?
1. Hideous nail colors? Grey/green nails have to be the ugliest thing I have seen in ages! Obviously created by some male executive who hates women (it is so ugly, it has to be a joke). If you insist, at least use one with some frost - this helps a little. Very little, but a little.
2. Piling on the mascara! If done correctly, one or 2 coats is enough. I hear women say that it "opens" the eye, it makes their eyes show up, lashes look longer, etc. What it does is bring all the attention - both good and bad - to the eyelashes, not the eye and certainly not to your overall look. In a really bad case, it looks like 2 burn holes in a sheet! You may think it makes you look glamorous, but don't forget Tammy Faye Bakker and Courtney Love thought the same thing. Not good.
Oh well, so much for not offending anyone.
Until next time...
Tuesday, November 8, 2011
Here we go again...
First, I'd like to thank all of you who read my initial blog post and left such nice comments on my Facebook page. Now, I would like to ask you to comment on the blog page, as well. If you loved it/hated it/wish my laptop would explode, whatever - let me know what you think. I would like this blog to be interesting and funny, and for that I want to enlist your help. Please ask questions, make suggestions on what you would like to read about and feel free to let me know if you don't agree ( I may not care much, but will certainly act like I do).
I would like to use today's post to discuss some of my feelings about makeup and beauty. Makeup has been my passion for many years. I knew I wanted to be a makeup artist when I was 14. I had skipped school and was home watching TV, when world-famous makeup artist George Masters came on, took a guest on the show and in less than an hour had transformed her from drab to pretty fabulous. The hair part didn't interest me, but I loved the transformation I saw from the makeup. I knew then that I wanted to do that. However, it was 1969 (don't hurt yourself counting, I'm 56) and I was in Alabama, so I thought I had as much chance of doing that as I did running away to Oz w/Dorothy - my back-up plan. BTW - red glitter shoes w/a blue gingham dress? Were there no gay people on that set?
Fast forward to the late 70's - I had moved to NYC, worked in a makeup shop on Madison Avenue, started to get some celebrity clients, etc. But I missed the South, so I moved to Atlanta. While working in a salon there George Masters came to do a personal appearance. I was finally going to meet the person that inspired me to choose this as a career. Little did I know that his assistant would quit and George would ask me to take his place. Duh, yeah! We traveled and worked together for several years until I decided there was more to life than hotels and airports. So, I settled in New Orleans in the 80's and fell immediately in love with this crazy, amazing place. This is home.
People ask where I went to makeup school. I don't think there were any when I started. I learned at the side of one of the all-time greats. George taught me things that I have never seen anyone else do and for that I will always be grateful. I would love to thank him in person, but he passed away in the mid 90's. Through my time working with him, I learned to love clean, simple makeup that focused the attention on the face, not the products. That has not changed. He also taught me how important the brows are to a face and the huge difference you can make by shaping them correctly. It is quite possibly the single most important thing you can do to improve your look. Discuss among yourselves.
OK, let's talk about some makeup,eh? I carry many products in my shop; there will be times that I include some of them in the discussion(s) and there will be times that I do not. I will always let you know if I sell something, just for the sake of full disclosure. First, let's all say how much we love YSL's Touche E'clat. I don't agree with the company's selling it as a concealer, to me it is more of a highlighter. You can hide darkness several ways: by covering with a color that matches your skin as closely as possible ( I use and sell Keromask, which we will talk about another day), color-correct/highlight with powder - Shu Uemura's M100 shadow is the greatest for this - just brush under the eye after everything else is done; or reflect back a brighter, "lit-up" surface by highlighting w/ a sheer, creamy formula - Touche E'clat. If you take this product and dot under the eyes, on the top of the cheekbone, up to the hairline, those hateful lines between the nose and mouth and in a "T" down the center of the face, then blend w/your foundation brush (you'd better be using one!), you will create a glow that looks really fresh and healthy. Again, I don't feel it takes the place of concealer, but when some of your darkness is due to bone structure, as with a recessed eye socket, adding this is the way to go. It appears to bring forward any areas you highlight with it. This is a technique (Chiaroscuro) that has been credited to both Leonardo Da Vinci and Michaelangelo - light comes forward, dark recedes. It is why we find black and white photography so beautiful...the play off of the dark and light along with the countless gray areas. Makeup is the same way - that is how we "re-shape and balance" a face. Just remember, as with almost all good makeup, a little goes a long way, you can always add, removing when you've put too much is an entirely different thing.
Today's Wisdom:
If you only choose to do a little makeup, concealer, lips and mascara, for instance, please get things that match well. If you're just going to wear a few products, all the more reason for them to be the right ones.
Hope you got something out of today's post. Let me know.
Until next time....
I would like to use today's post to discuss some of my feelings about makeup and beauty. Makeup has been my passion for many years. I knew I wanted to be a makeup artist when I was 14. I had skipped school and was home watching TV, when world-famous makeup artist George Masters came on, took a guest on the show and in less than an hour had transformed her from drab to pretty fabulous. The hair part didn't interest me, but I loved the transformation I saw from the makeup. I knew then that I wanted to do that. However, it was 1969 (don't hurt yourself counting, I'm 56) and I was in Alabama, so I thought I had as much chance of doing that as I did running away to Oz w/Dorothy - my back-up plan. BTW - red glitter shoes w/a blue gingham dress? Were there no gay people on that set?
Fast forward to the late 70's - I had moved to NYC, worked in a makeup shop on Madison Avenue, started to get some celebrity clients, etc. But I missed the South, so I moved to Atlanta. While working in a salon there George Masters came to do a personal appearance. I was finally going to meet the person that inspired me to choose this as a career. Little did I know that his assistant would quit and George would ask me to take his place. Duh, yeah! We traveled and worked together for several years until I decided there was more to life than hotels and airports. So, I settled in New Orleans in the 80's and fell immediately in love with this crazy, amazing place. This is home.
People ask where I went to makeup school. I don't think there were any when I started. I learned at the side of one of the all-time greats. George taught me things that I have never seen anyone else do and for that I will always be grateful. I would love to thank him in person, but he passed away in the mid 90's. Through my time working with him, I learned to love clean, simple makeup that focused the attention on the face, not the products. That has not changed. He also taught me how important the brows are to a face and the huge difference you can make by shaping them correctly. It is quite possibly the single most important thing you can do to improve your look. Discuss among yourselves.
OK, let's talk about some makeup,eh? I carry many products in my shop; there will be times that I include some of them in the discussion(s) and there will be times that I do not. I will always let you know if I sell something, just for the sake of full disclosure. First, let's all say how much we love YSL's Touche E'clat. I don't agree with the company's selling it as a concealer, to me it is more of a highlighter. You can hide darkness several ways: by covering with a color that matches your skin as closely as possible ( I use and sell Keromask, which we will talk about another day), color-correct/highlight with powder - Shu Uemura's M100 shadow is the greatest for this - just brush under the eye after everything else is done; or reflect back a brighter, "lit-up" surface by highlighting w/ a sheer, creamy formula - Touche E'clat. If you take this product and dot under the eyes, on the top of the cheekbone, up to the hairline, those hateful lines between the nose and mouth and in a "T" down the center of the face, then blend w/your foundation brush (you'd better be using one!), you will create a glow that looks really fresh and healthy. Again, I don't feel it takes the place of concealer, but when some of your darkness is due to bone structure, as with a recessed eye socket, adding this is the way to go. It appears to bring forward any areas you highlight with it. This is a technique (Chiaroscuro) that has been credited to both Leonardo Da Vinci and Michaelangelo - light comes forward, dark recedes. It is why we find black and white photography so beautiful...the play off of the dark and light along with the countless gray areas. Makeup is the same way - that is how we "re-shape and balance" a face. Just remember, as with almost all good makeup, a little goes a long way, you can always add, removing when you've put too much is an entirely different thing.
Today's Wisdom:
If you only choose to do a little makeup, concealer, lips and mascara, for instance, please get things that match well. If you're just going to wear a few products, all the more reason for them to be the right ones.
Hope you got something out of today's post. Let me know.
Until next time....
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