Ok, the first post "tutorial" has got to be about this subject. This is hands down the most common complaint that I get from clients - I hate my dark circles. So, we are going to discuss that today. I hate my dark circles, too. Everyone does. Before we go any further, I have to say - we must be realistic as to what we are able to accomplish here. Makeup is not magic.
Nearly every cosmetic company has a product that they say will get rid of wrinkles and darkness. Read this twice - no cosmetic product gets rid of wrinkles and dark circles. It is not unusual for companies to promise things they can't deliver (do I really even have to say that?). Educate yourself on what ingredients are in your treatment products and do your own research (Google) to see what the experts -the ones not hired by that company - say about them. I think every person should use an eye cream to help slow down the effects of aging, but I have never found a product that "took away" anything permanently.
There are a few eye creams that I think make the skin in the eye area look much better - and also provide a smoother surface for the concealer. I do not recommend eye creams during the day - invariably they will adversely affect the way your makeup wears. Plus, if they are good, once a day is enough. And be very careful applying to the upper lid. Most creams are really not meant for this area.
A few creams to consider are Hylexin ( for very dark circles), AbOvo ( uses Emu Oil for healing) and Guerlain SuperAcqua Eye ( great as a hydrator for dehydrated skins).
Once you have gotten the skin ready, then apply the cover. I use Keromask - a British product that has recently expanded it's color range. It is without a doubt the best concealer I have ever used. There are others that work well - MAC Full Coverage makes great concealer (albeit a little oily), as does DermaColor, Shu Uemura and - one of my faves - YSL Touche E'clat ( it is for highlighting and brightening, not covering up).
Concealer should be applied with a brush. Concealer sticks where it first touches heat. The fingers are too warm and start the melting process immediately, thereby leaving the adhesive part on your fingers, not the area you were trying to conceal. This is the main reason that you put on concealer in the morning, look at yourself in the middle of the day, and you look like you don't have any on. I always hear "My skin eats it". Not possible - it just wasn't applied correctly.
When matching a color, avoid colors that are too yellow. Because their circles appear to be purple, a lot of people want yellow - it is on the opposite side of the color wheel from the discoloration that they see, so, in theory, it should neutralize the purple. We see a lot of purple in the under eye area, but the main color is more grey. And yellow won't hide grey - in fact it makes it worse. You need something with a little pink or red to neutralize the grey.
You are also not mixing paint. You cannot take a very light color and "infuse" it into the dark area, making that area lighter. All you can do is cover it up and you will do that more successfully with a color that is close to your skin tone. If you have a deep indentation, going one shade lighter can lift the area out and make it not look so dark. BUT - only wear a super-light concealer if you want to look like an aging soap opera actress. It does not fool anyone into thinking you don't have dark circles, they just think you have a ton of makeup on.
Apply concealer in very small amounts and blend each layer as you go. 2 thin coats is much better than 1 heavy coat. It covers better, blends easier and looks more like skin. Blending can be done with a foundation brush or a sponge. Or, if you are neurotic like me, you can use both. When using the sponge, you should always pat/press the skin, not drag the sponge over the area. Any time you are working around the eyes, use half of the pressure you think is ok. This is very thin skin and very unforgiving, particularly if it is abused. If your eyes are deep set, be very careful how far down you bring the concealer - you want to blend the edges of the concealer into the skin, so that they are seamless. Remember that the concealer, if not blended well, will have a different texture than the rest of the skin. This is so noticeable that you may as well draw an arrow to it.
I like to conceal first, then do the eyes, followed by foundation and powder. Do not put concealer over powder unless you have been shown exactly how to do this - it can be a caked-on disaster if not done well.
You can also use concealer in other areas of the face - covering spots, bruises, etc. This can be a lot trickier - you should have a little knowledge of color theory, so that you can color-correct, as well as hide. Always blend well and apply this before foundation so that there is no line.
Concealer can be your best friend or your worst enemy. It all depends on you. Use it correctly and lots of imperfections can be made invisible (or at least unimportant). Put it on wrong and it will accentuate the very thing you are trying to hide. More is not neccessarily better. Better is better.
No comments:
Post a Comment